Diary… Tuesday, Los Cristianos, Tenerife


On the beach that gives Paloma Beach Apartments its name, the sunset bar that was there last year is now no longer there and local chat says there was some kind of regulatory clampdown and it got demolished. 

The bar may have gone but assorted travellers and campers have arrived. The temporary/permanent status of these residents is hazy, but the beach itself remains stony, craggy delightfully relaxing and idyllically landscapey.

Later: We didn’t see many whales on our sunset whale-watching trip, but it was a lovely afternoon on a catamaran swigging cava and eating pinxtos. The best quote came from Al, who said, “I think I might have seen a whale.”

One of the group, Courtney from Glasgow, had a mishap when she fished into her bag for something and her credit card flew out on the wind and overboard. We learned later from her mother that it was her boyfriend’s card. Courtney did not seem very worried and even managed to sneak up to the bridge of the boat to sit with the Captain, Indigo, or Inigo.

Even later, after dinner, a happy day took an ugly turn when we found a woman sitting on the stairs of the Paloma Beach Apartments who had been beaten by ‘her man’. She had a damaged, possibly broken arm, but asked us not to contact police or ambulance. My wife Jane managed to speak with her and eventually to walk her back to her nearby hotel room, but this dark cloud hung over us way past midnight. The battered and very distressed woman’s name was Caroline.

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